We arrive back in The Bishops Inn, Port Elizabeth, just in time for the boys to be taken to Judo with 'Marshal', the owner of the Hotel who is on his way, with his two sons, to teach at a local club. He has also arranged a trip to the largest township in Port Elizabeth tomorrow, as Freddie is supposed to be studying this at school at the moment, so it will be great for Fred to experience this first hand. I am sure it will be something he won't forget! Judo is a hit with the boys, in fact they don't get back until quite late! ... but Marceal has managed to feed them with a bit of 'fast food' on the way home. The next morning we head out to 'New Brighton' with 'Marshal's two sons, who are taking us to a large, multi international, award winning museum in the middle of the township known as 'Red Location'. It actually won a World Leadership Award in 2005 for its Architecture. This was in fact one of the first townships ever established in South Africa (1903), after the First South African War (The Boer War - 1899 - 1902), when the local people, during the start of the Apartied regime, were forceably relocated out of the main town, Port Elizabeth, to an area of land on the outskirts. Their homes were built from the old building materials of the former Uitenhage Boer Concentration Camp, comprising predominantly rusty corrugated tin, which was then painted with red lead oxide paint, hence the Township became known as 'Red Location'. The Museum, which is in the middle of the Township, was part funded by the Swedish Government and has been built to resemble a factory. I think we all found it a fairly dour and dispiriting museum, although clearly reflecting the sad days of Apartheid and the massacres that went on during this period of history. I feel it would have had greater impact to also see and understand the passion, colour and beliefs within the culture of the people at that time. The children ask many questions and begin to understand some of the difficulties that certain ethnic groups of people have had to face throughout their lives.
The museum has internal rooms that they call 'memory boxes', meant to replicate the small boxes that local people would carry around comprising their only worldly possessions and other rooms recounting the stories of those people that were killed, for little reason, the perpatrators of whom have never been identified or brought to justice. Red Location became a 'hotspot of struggle' against the former Apartheid Regime and many famous political leaders or activists were either born there or lived there. The township has certainly given us an insight into those dark days.
Fred in a memory box ...... A typical size house for up to 10 people.
A visit to the Kanyisa School for the Visually Impaired in KwaDwesi Township.
Being taught how to use and type Braille at the school.
Heading back we visit the Kanyisa School for the Visually Impaired within the Township of KwaDwesi, where we take a tour and meet the head teacher and some of the pupils, one of whom is taking part in the Finals of the National (blind) Judo Competition. The children are shown how to use a Braille typing machine (a brailler) and how letters and numbers are formed in braille which is very interesting, not something even Jo or I were aware of. We then head off to one of the private prep schools; 'St. Georges' to have a tour, as 'Marshal' teaches Judo there and we meet up with the head and various other teachers, on the way back we go past the Grays School, a sporting school that Mike Catt and many Springbok players attended, which although a very traditional state school has a huge waiting list.
The following day we pick up a rental car from one of 'Marshal's acquaintances, as he informs us that although the car would be a little bit older, we would get a much better rate. However, we hadn't quite expected that the VW Jetta provided would be quite
that old!!! .............. We had envisaged something about three years old but instead found that our particular model had recently been used in an episode of the 'Filntstones!!' In fact by the time I had mathematically packed the 'small yet spacious' boot (We had also expected a hatchback!!!); which I think the young lady dropping it off was amazed as to how I had managed to get five months worth of luggage in the boot! ...... even I was suprised!!, ....... shoe-horned Harry, Fred and Imogen into the back seat, ..... the bottom of the car was almost on the ground!!!! ..................... I expected to have those great cartoon holes in the car floor so that I could simply pick it up of the ground and run with it!!! ............. still, there was no time to make a fuss now, we had to be on our way and I believe 'Marshal' was only trying to do us a favour. .............. So with a final shout of "
Wilmaaaaaaa! .......... get in the car!" ..... we were on our way to a nice little thatched cottage, at Shumba Manor, that we had hired for a bit of a break before our Land Rover journey, in the 'Citrus' farming community of Patensie.
Toby Flood, Anthony Allene and the children ........ in their element!
On the way we needed to call in to the local shopping centre, 'Greenacres', to stock up on food including a Birthday Cake for Freddie as today is his big day, and a few other essentials before our trip. However, whilst Jo had been talking to someone, she had mentioned the forthcoming International Rugby match and the chap she was talking to informed her that the England Team were staying at the same Hotel as him, the 'Radisson Bleu Hotel' in PE. The children were extremely excited about this news with Harry insistng that we drive to the Hotel to meet them. I did try to explain, in that fatherly, 50 and grumpy way, that the chances of seeing them would be pretty slim! ......... so, we made a huge diversion out of 'Greenacres' and headed for the Hotel. Our 15 year old VW Jetta managed to limp its way to the Hotel .......... just, .... with a rubber mud flap under the middle of the car constantly scraping the road, from a combination of too much weight and limited suspension. ....... and once parked our plan was to head for the bar on the first floor, as Jo and I needed a coffee. However once inside, we bumped into Chris Ashton at reception and the children quickly grabbed pens and paper for autographs and he was very obliging, a very nice chap and after a quick chat with him, he mentioned that the other lads should be coming back shortly from training. ............ this made the children even more excited! ..... Mike Catt was at the bar having a chat to someone, so the children quietly interrupted him for his autograph and again he was very obliging; didn't realise that he grew up in PE and went to Gray's school, which has a big reputation for sport, ......... and some 10 minutes later the 'Backs' came in, walking up the stairs and were duly swamped by the children, pens and paper in hand! Tuilagi, Toby Flood, Dylan Hartely, Anthony Allene and various others. After autographs and photos, we finished our coffee and headed back out of town for Patensie, although we would now be getting there in the dark!! ........... with a bit of luck!! ......
The children, extremely happy with our detour and a great Birthday treat for Fred, as there is no way you would have been able to get that close to them in England, were excitedly chatterring away in the back of the car as we carefully made our way to Patensie. The roads are narrow in places and it is now dark and raining and suddenly going round one bend, a car, taking the bend too fast and wide! takes off my wing mirror!!!! ..... close call!! We eventually arrive after about an hour, unpack, get the fire going and settle in for the evening and celebrate Fred's 9th Birthday (Fred's unofficial Birthday!)
The small thatched cottage, with open eaves, was adjacent to the main house, but beautifully perched on the top of a hill with a panaoramic view of the surrounding countryside and a very comfortable place to stay. The next day the sun shone through the large windows and we chilled out, catching up on a bit of diary and school work before managing to fix the wing mirror at a local scrap merchants in the nearby town of Humansdorp and visit the very scenic coastal town of St Francis. Saturday arrived, the big day, with a 5pm kick-off and we had to head back to PE, to the Nelson Mandela Stadium, for the big Rugby match, South Africa v England!. Fortunately the car didn't let us down and after parking up on the pavement with the usual local protection of " I'll look after your car for you sir!", from one of the locals, which would require some sort of tip after the game!; .............. personally, I think a car of that age was quite capable of looking after itself! ......... but thats how it works. We walked toward the stadium, picking up a few England flags along the way, which were greeted by various horns and shouts from passing SA cars, all in jest, and eventually made the stadium, with a few hats and scalfs purchased for what was a sell out game .............. the first big rugby match for both Freddie and Imogen, who at 8 and 9, were not quite sure what to expect. ................. but as England fans, we were certainly in the minority.
5 of the very, very few English fans in the stadium
The Nelson Mandela Stadium, built for the Football World Cup in 2010, is very impressive and England start off with great spirit, as they need a win having already lost the first two games to SA on the tour. We are surrounded by Springbok fans, especially two girls behind who have clearly been on a bit of South African juice already, infact they end up sharing there hip flask of 'Old Town Sherry' with Jo and I and then decide that the boys need to swap their England hats and scalfs for the girls South African ones!! It is a real carnival atmosphere except when England have possession then it is deadly quiet, apart from our great English voices that are lost in the SA 'hum', before reaching the pitch! The game continues apace and the rain starts although we are undercover so dont get wet. The score ends at 14:14, although England had the better game. After the match the children are keen to hang around for more autographs and with patience and perseverance, they get their picture taken with Danny Care, who is man of the match. ............... What a great day!
Harry with Danny Care, man of the match
Citrus farming in Patensie.
Following a much needed lie we enjoy a lazy breakfast, followed by a bit of comprehension, maths and diaries. ........ the children also do a bit of school work!! .... In the afternoon we visit a local Country and Coffee shop called 'Tolbos', some 5 minutes down the road, run by a lovely lady called 'Hetsie'. They serve great food and coffee and it easily doubles up for a classroom. During a late lunch Harry is getting a little anxious as he desperately wants to watch the quarter finals of Euro Football, between England and Italy, tonight ...... as do I, so he asks Hetsie if there is a somewhere that will be televising the match. .............. She says that there is nowhere in Patensie so cordially invites us all to her house to watch it as her husband is bound to have it on. The company is far better than the match, which ends up with an England loss, following a penalty shoot out, which keeps us all up late! ....... but beforehand we also manage to watch a bit of the Monaco Grand Prix. Hetsie and Kobus are big Citrus Farmers and the children are in their element eating as many oranges and pomegranates as they can manage, to the extent that we are all invited over the next day to pick fresh fruit from the farm!! Hetsie and Kobus have travelled through Namibia many times, infact Kobus has been travelling there for 40 years!!, so they help us out with plenty of good tips for our journey. ..............thank you Hetsie and Kobus Scheepers, your generosity which was fantastic.
Ooooops!!!!
Back in the cottage we spend the next day again relaxing coupled with a bit of school work and make a short visit to the Kouga Dam, which the children enjoy. The following day we plan to head for Sedgefield, near Knysna, to visit Penny's parents, (Harry's Godmother), Jill and Ed and their dog Amber, who the children were very excited about meeting, as they were missing the company of our old jack russell, Max, who was waiting for us back in the UK. ....... With the boot of the VW packed as tight as possible, ............... and rather like a jigsaw puzzle, it took a bit of time to get it right!, our faithful 'jalopy' now had a good two and a half hour trip to Sedgefield and once in the car we drove down the very bumpy track toward the main road. The Shumba Manor track enterred the mile long, straight section of main road about half way down and I pulled out to a completely empty road. I decided to pull over to take a photograph of the cottage, perched up on the hill and once taken I was just about to pull out when I noticed in my rear view mirror, a car coming down the road in the distance, followed by a large articulated 'fruit' lorry and then another car. I wait patiently, with my left indicator on looking in the mirror. ........ the first car pulls out and passes, then the lorry pulls out and starts to pass but as I look at the next car following on, I suddenly realise, in the space of a second that the car has not pulled out to pass us! and it becomes frighteningly clear that it has not even seen us!! The car, probably driving at a speed of about 80km/hr was going to hit us full on and I didn't even have time to warn anyone before a large bang and jolt forward occured as we were hit from behind! With the screech of tyres and brakes the red car hit our car and with a ricochet, skidded diagonally, some 50 yards across the road into the verge; luckily there was no on-coming traffic .............................. I immediately looked behind and fortunately could see that the children all appearded to be in one piece, although shaken as was Jo. The other car was being driven by a very pleasant lady and her daughter and they both seemed to be fine, although the daughter had been bruised by the air bags. They had both been looking at the Shumba Manor sign to stop for lunch and had not seen our car until the very last second when they must have swerved right then immediately left, out of control, as their off side front wheel hit our rear drivers side wheel, both being completely buckled sideways. ............... This could have been a lot worse! .... Both cars, I suspect, would be written off and after about two hours of police and tow trucks, we were given a replacement VW Jetta, ............... even older than the last one!!!, re-packed the boot and went on our merry way! ............ and in the language of cats, our 9 lives had just become 8!! ................. The replacement VW Jetta had some 270,000 km on the clock already!!! ..... with similar low suspension! ....................... it was another 'Flintstone' moment!! .... but even Fred and Barny always made it to their destination! ............... We arrived in Sedgfield in one piece.
Sunset over Knysna
Imogen taking the photo at Kysna
Jill and Ed were wonderful hosts and looked after us all very well and I believe just about survived the noise and chaos of three children for a couple of days! It was great chilling out time and we also managed to watch a little Wimbledon! .............. Ed even persuaded me to play a round of golf at his local club and having not picked up a golf club for some three years!................... I could have been a lot worse!!! ......... Thanks for the game Ed. Following a good fillet espetada in the evening, the next day we took in a visit to Knysna and after watching the sun setting over the lagoon, we had a drink at the waterfront and headed home where we caught another bit of Wimbledon with Federer surviving a mammoth 5 set match, much to Jo's delight.
Our South African respite was ending as we headed back to Port Elizabeth for our flight to Windhoek in Namibia via Johannesburg. The next seven weeks our home was to be a Land Rover and a tent, with a couple of Lodges to shower in between the 6,000 km journey through Namibia, Botswana and Zambia. Communication during our journey is going to be tricky as the term 'in the middle of nowhere' is going to be a frequent location!!!
We arrive back in The Bishops Inn, Port Elizabeth, just in time for the boys to be taken to Judo with 'Marshal', the owner of the Hotel who is on his way, with his two sons, to teach at a local club. He has also arranged a trip to the largest township in Port Elizabeth tomorrow, as Freddie is supposed to be studying this at school at the moment, so it will be great for Fred to experience this first hand. I am sure it will be something he won't forget! Judo is a hit with the boys, in fact they don't get back until quite late! ... but Marceal has managed to feed them with a bit of 'fast food' on the way home. The next morning we head out to 'New Brighton' with 'Marshal's two sons, who are taking us to a large, multi international, award winning museum in the middle of the township known as 'Red Location'. It actually won a World Leadership Award in 2005 for its Architecture. This was in fact one of the first townships ever established in South Africa (1903), after the First South African War (The Boer War - 1899 - 1902), when the local people, during the start of the Apartied regime, were forceably relocated out of the main town, Port Elizabeth, to an area of land on the outskirts. Their homes were built from the old building materials of the former Uitenhage Boer Concentration Camp, comprising predominantly rusty corrugated tin, which was then painted with red lead oxide paint, hence the Township became known as 'Red Location'. The Museum, which is in the middle of the Township, was part funded by the Swedish Government and has been built to resemble a factory. I think we all found it a fairly dour and dispiriting museum, although clearly reflecting the sad days of Apartheid and the massacres that went on during this period of history. I feel it would have had greater impact to also see and understand the passion, colour and beliefs within the culture of the people at that time. The children ask many questions and begin to understand some of the difficulties that certain ethnic groups of people have had to face throughout their lives.
On the way we needed to call in to the local shopping centre, 'Greenacres', to stock up on food including a Birthday Cake for Freddie as today is his big day, and a few other essentials before our trip. However, whilst Jo had been talking to someone, she had mentioned the forthcoming International Rugby match and the chap she was talking to informed her that the England Team were staying at the same Hotel as him, the 'Radisson Bleu Hotel' in PE. The children were extremely excited about this news with Harry insistng that we drive to the Hotel to meet them. I did try to explain, in that fatherly, 50 and grumpy way, that the chances of seeing them would be pretty slim! ......... so, we made a huge diversion out of 'Greenacres' and headed for the Hotel. Our 15 year old VW Jetta managed to limp its way to the Hotel .......... just, .... with a rubber mud flap under the middle of the car constantly scraping the road, from a combination of too much weight and limited suspension. ....... and once parked our plan was to head for the bar on the first floor, as Jo and I needed a coffee. However once inside, we bumped into Chris Ashton at reception and the children quickly grabbed pens and paper for autographs and he was very obliging, a very nice chap and after a quick chat with him, he mentioned that the other lads should be coming back shortly from training. ............ this made the children even more excited! ..... Mike Catt was at the bar having a chat to someone, so the children quietly interrupted him for his autograph and again he was very obliging; didn't realise that he grew up in PE and went to Gray's school, which has a big reputation for sport, ......... and some 10 minutes later the 'Backs' came in, walking up the stairs and were duly swamped by the children, pens and paper in hand! Tuilagi, Toby Flood, Dylan Hartely, Anthony Allene and various others. After autographs and photos, we finished our coffee and headed back out of town for Patensie, although we would now be getting there in the dark!! ........... with a bit of luck!! ...... 
The children, extremely happy with our detour and a great Birthday treat for Fred, as there is no way you would have been able to get that close to them in England, were excitedly chatterring away in the back of the car as we carefully made our way to Patensie. The roads are narrow in places and it is now dark and raining and suddenly going round one bend, a car, taking the bend too fast and wide! takes off my wing mirror!!!! ..... close call!! We eventually arrive after about an hour, unpack, get the fire going and settle in for the evening and celebrate Fred's 9th Birthday (Fred's unofficial Birthday!)
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