Monday 27 August 2012

Day 119 - 122 - Etendeka: Bucket showers, Elephants and the Crystal Mountain.



Etendeka Mountain Camp, or as the children reffered to it ...... Ant & Deck-a, ...... was a vey remote bush camp nestled amongst the plains and mountains of Northern Damaraland and last night after a quick solar powered, hot water, 'bucket' shower we managed sundowners on the mountain ridge overlooking a most spectacular view. We were staying here in a tented lodge, with adjacent open 'bucket' shower and 'flush loos' on a full board basis, .......... a little bit of luxury!! ........ and with a bit of practice, using one full bucket of hot water ........ the shower was good! ...... with enough left over to clean your teeth! Etendeka is a 'concession' reserve and run by Dennis, who has been there for some 21 years. It is a wonderfully sociable camp with Ivan the guide, who is a great and knowledgeable character; taught by non other than Mr 'Johann Lombard', back in his 'Wilderness Safari' days, ..... and whilst at Etendeka we met some great people; Maisa Fernandez (who kindly took the photo below), a lovely German couple who kindly sent me some photos but there email seems to have disappeared from my system - please send again! The Lodier family, Justine and George with their chidren Alexia and Benji, who kept our children entertained.

Taken by Maisa Fernandez

The mornings were taken up with long walks, up to 4 hours, which over rocky ground, Fred (foot still bandaged) found quite challenging, but the freedom to walk, without being eaten, and the scenery was quite amazing. There was no sign of other human life for as far as the eye could see, in any direction and it was possible to see for miles to the distant mountain ranges. Back in camp, after a hearty lunch, siestas were an option, but we chose to use the couple of hours catching up with journals and a little bit of school work, before the afternoon game drive. The drive was fun and on the way back from the first days game drive, just as dusk was falling, the track was blocked by a very upset porcupine who was being stalked by a young leopard!! ..... This was quite an extraordinary siting and the porcupine with its quills fully erect, looked huge. We sat there quietly in the diminishing light as the young male leopard, who initially ran into the darkness, came back around to have another go at the porcupine. The porcupine was not happy, hissing and spiiting and backing himself aggressively toward the leopard, then towards the Land Rover. In the end the leopard conceded defeat and walked off, the porcupine's erect quills proving far too dangerous for the young leopard, but this left us still unable to continue our journey. The porcupine refused to move and kept backing up toward the Land Rover, threating to inject his quils into our tyre!! ............. It was quite amusing to see this wild, or should I say 'livid' creature, trying to tackle a Land Rover!! ............ Eventually we inched passed as it spat and hissed its discontent at our prescence and then it suddenly ran off into the night ............. I suspect to the nearest bar for a good whisky, to calm its nerves!!!

Below: Our view from the tent. ...................... Above: our abode.

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The whole of Etendeka was a geologist's paradise and on the second morning when Ivan took both us and the Lodier family up to 'Crystal Mountain', which for the children was like being in a huge 'sweety' shop! ...... there were crystals, literally, everywhere you looked. What appeared to be a plain orange coloured lump of Basalt rock on the outside, when split open suddenly became a hidden treasure of sparkling amethysts, clear quartz or some other form of ancient crystalised gem. It was quite a sight to see and these glistening crystals, offering visable clues to the formation of this ancient volcanic landscape, provided the basis of a good Geology lesson from Ivan, which kept the children transfixed. In fact, the only thing missing from the experience was Indiana Jones and The Crystal Skull!! ........... Air bubbles locked into the volcanic larva as it cooled at different rates causing huge internal tension, all those millions of years ago, transform into small round 'pebble' like crystal stones, called Geots. Through natural erosion and exfoliation of the basalt, they are sprinkled around the ground like spilled 'smarties' of various colours, having been released from their stone prison, slowly discolouring as the air tarnishes their surface. ........ and watching the history of this landscape, literally unfold before your very eyes, understanding the immense power and forces that created what we were standing on, is quite thought provoking!




Indiana Jones ................................................................ and his mum!
Etendeka is a great 'eco' place to stay, both from the friendly, sociable atmosphere that Dennis has created and the stunning remote mountain location and we were sad to leave; I was even given a bottle of bubbly as a birthday gift to take on our way! ... but on the way we bumped into some interesting wildlife! ..... including the two 'brothers in arms' below! ............. Now, .... as the one thing animals don't have in the bush is a 'MIRROR' ...... how the devil do THEY know what, or who, they are!? ........... the Zebra has never seen himself, .... so he looks at the Oryx and unquestionably thinks he is an Oryx!!!! ........ and the Oryx, ..... he looks at the zebra and thinks ....... 'whow ... I'm one of those! .... interesting thought!! ......... Now in terms of filming, they say never work with animals!!! .... but these two chaps were experienced and clearly had their 'equity' cards!!! .... "So, guys ..... after 3 .... and look this way! .. 1,2,3"

Yes ................... these guys are gooood!!!! ....................... truly amazing!

We left the luxury of 'bucket' showers and 'flushing loos' behind, to drive the 20km back through the bushveld track in our faithful Land Rover, across the vast open plains, framed between the orange basalt mountains and just before we reached the Consession Gate, we came to an abrupt halt! .... Our route was completely blocked by a herd of seven grazing Elephants! ...... There was no way we could pass without provoking them and having a provoked 5 ton bull elephant running for your boot was not a good idea! .......... so, letting the elephants see us and get used to us, we sat quietly, then crept slowly forward in the Land Rover to get as close as we dare and switched off the engine to watch them. We managed to get fairly close but needed to be cautious as there was a mother with her young and they will get protective. Being completely on your own with these wild animals is both an amazing and rewarding experience, albeit slightly scary, as any wild animal is unpredictable and even a 2 ton Land Rover was no match for a fully grown elephant! ................... they were keeping their eyes on us and we remained very calm and enjoyed the moment until they gave us enough room to slowly move passed. A great end to Etendeka!

Leaving the elephants behind, we are now on our way to Etosha, a huge National Park in northern Namibia and home to the big 5. We are heading for 'Dolomite Camp', in west Etosha, a couple of days in a lodge, with real bathrooms, for the 'big' Birthday.



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