Day 136 - Banks, borders and the great Zambezi

Day 136 - Following a hearty breakfast of bacon and egg sandwiches knocked up by Dan whilst Clement fired up the wood boiler for some hot water, we took a short fishing trip with Dan and Clement. The River was calm and quiet, the only ripples were those from our boat as we cut through the gently flowing waters.  The river had an air of solitude as the sun was waking, rising up to find its rightful place in the sky and bring the wetlands to life.  The fishing rods were prepared and Imogen and Harry cast out in search of the big one. Following her second cast and much to the amazement of the boys she immediately hooks a large pike!! ....... wow! she is totally thrilled with her first ever catch and a first catch that she will undoubtedly remember throughout her life. She excitedly reeled in the fish as it thrashed about in the water, but it soon wriggled free and escaped back into the depths. 'Ah ..... the one that got away!'  Harry managed the next succesful catch with a Pike and a large Bass.  The Pike was returned to the river but the Bass was brought onto the boat and given to Clement for his supper. His new wife of 23 (to Clement's age of 46), was currently in Hospital awaiting the birth of their baby.

At least someone has caught lunch!

On our way back in the boat we see a wonderful site of about 24 Sable, a beautiful majestic animal with large curved horns and rare to see so many in one group.  We also see a group of Roan, one of the fastest antelope in the bush.




Back in Camp we are greeted by a heard of Elephants that have decided to pay us a visit before we leave and we walk through the camp to get quite a close view, the children are quietly anxious as the elephants trunks start to smell the air and our scent.  We sit and watch for a while then quietly head back to our hut for a quick coffee before we pack the Landrover and leave Mashi River Camp.

Back at camp we have a few welcomed visitors!

   We finally get underway at about 1.00pm, a little later than we had anticipated, but being waylaid by so many beautiful sites is not a bad thing and after saying our goodbyes to Dan and Clements we head off to our next destination, Zambia and the great Zambezi River.

The Victoria Falls

The drive to the main town of Katima Mulilo, on the Zambia border, took about an hour and a half, a reasonably large and busy town which would give us an opportunity to stock up on food supplies but our main stop centred around the urgent need for US dollars. These were a necessity to get us through the complex procedures of the Zambian Border. First we called in to the Windhoek Bank and were told to wait in the queue for foreign exchange services. Being British we duly obliged and 45 minutes later reached the counter only to be told "No Dollars!". Great! ...... Next we tried the Standard Bank 'No Dollars!" ............. then Nedbank, again 'No Dollars!"  Not quite what we had expected and by this time we had wasted well over an hour in the hunt for dollars and were now cutting it a little fine to get through border protocol, which can take more than 2 hours, before 6.00pm, when the border closes.  We quickly grab some snacks and make an essential fuel stop to fill the tanks. We finally make the border by 4.00pm and raiding the children's stash of dollars that were given to them as presents before we left, we start the beaurocratic journey from one hut to the next, via a semi wrecked caravan and a group of young 'black marketeers' trading wads of notes from every currency you could imagine. As usual, where Jo is involved, we decided to complicate the process by claiming back an element of VAT that we had paid on goods in Namibia. this meant a lot more queueing, form filling in and getting the appropriate stamps.  

We were guided through the gate by the Local Police and directed to Immigration.  Armed with passports and all the children's dollars, Jo and I leave the children in the car and enter a painted brick building; it is $80.00 for a multi entry visa or $50.00 for a single, but if we want to head into Zimbabwe, that would be another $50.00. We chose the $80.00 option, leaving Zimbabwe for another day and luckily the children were free. We then make our way to the Customs building but first we need to change Namibian Dollars for South African Rand, as it is 240.00 SAR to get the Landrover across the border with yet more paperwork. We now find ourselves trading with the very dodgy looking 'black market' geezer, flashing wads of currency in the compound yard that we noted on the way in! .............. This all seemed a little surreal, as we appeared to be in a place that resembled a cross between a local scrap yard, a 1960's English driving test centre and the central 'bookies' park at Wolverhampton races, but just another 'normal' situation you have to deal with when crossing African borders.
After striking a deal with Joshua the 'money' man ........... or should I say boy, we were escorted to what can only be described as a completely wrecked caravan, that doubled up as the Insurance Office.  Am I seriously parting with 510 SAR, to some dodgy looking guy in a dilapidated caravan, who was going to provide me with 'quality' insurance cover to travel in Zambia.  ................ The words 'Oh Yes!' sprang into my mind from the beloved British bulldog Churchill, but I am sure if Vic Reeves was here with me he might have a different view!!  ........ probably involving the words .....joking; must be and bloody! ................... can't wait for the outcome of the insurance claim!
and there is more! ..... we are only in Zambia for 4 days but have to purchase 3 months worth of cover! .............. Next is 'Carbon Tax' at $32 US Dollars and almost finished ................ we then head to our last portocabin to pay the entry fee/council tax of $6.00 US Dollars.  

Finally, after this two hour ritual, and feeling extremely less flush with cash, having used $90.00 of Freddie's holiday money, we are in Zambia! The border closes at 6.00pm and it is 6.00pm as we drive out of the immigration car park and cross the bridge over the great Zambezi River on our way to Livingstone .............. I presume.

We are heading for a wonderful place known as Waterbury Lodge on the banks of the Zambezi, a little luxury for a few days to wash and brush up, however we are expected for supper, so with foot firmly to the floor we need to make haste.  Having been warned about the huge pot holes quietly dispersed along the tarmac road, together with the dark shadowy figures of wandering pedestrians and a menagerie of wildlife, taking its life in its own hands slowly crossing the road melting into the darkness, heavy concentration is required. We finally arrive at 8.00pm, although they had been getting a little concerned as to our whereabouts and we are rushed into supper as the kitchen is closing.  We eat well and sleep well in the comfort of our little thatched ronadvill on the magnificent banks of the great Zambezi river, looking forward to what the morning would deliver and we were not disappointed.